Saturday, March 21, 2009

Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse: A Novel of the Turbulent Near Future (Expanded and Updated 33 Chapter Edition) By James Wesley Rawles

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Product Details
Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse: A Novel of the Turbulent Near Future (Expanded and Updated 33 Chapter Edition)

Product Description

Patriots: Surviving the Coming Collapse is novel set in the near future that describes a full scale socioeconomic collapse. More than just an exciting read, it is packed with useful survival and preparedness tips. It was described by one reviewer


Product Details

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #1517 in Books
  • Published on: 2006-11-15
  • Released on: 2006-11-15
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 384 pages

Customer Reviews

Good, But Too Late4
This book was an interesting read. If I'd had the foresight to be born rich, and to have read the book ten years ago, it would be quite helpful in setting up a safe house in the country. Unfortunately, we are out of time. What with the corporate looters (AKA CEO's) having stolen what little money I had, it looks like I'll wind up on the "them" side of this book's "us vs. them" equation.

Fascinating and disturbing2
As a piece of fiction, Patriots is pretty weak stuff. The plot-lines are simplistic, there's no characterization at all, and the exploration of disaster is superficial despite all the technical details Rawles scatters through the pages. The action is pure "Boy's Own" and wouldn't be out of place in a Victorian yarn. As a novel, in short, this book is a complete failure.

As an insight into the mind-set of survivalists, however, it's a gem. Unlike many survivalists, Rawles clearly knows his stuff. This part of the book will appeal to anyone who likes details, even when Rawles' opinions are wide of the mark. Who hasn't occasionally wondered what life would be like (assuming life continued at all) after the End of Civilization? Given that the vast majority of Americans (for this is a quintessentially American book) wouldn't make it past the first 30 days, how could survival of a few be ensured, and what would the resulting communities look like? In principle, this is a topic rich with possibilities. How would the survivors cope emotionally? What kinds of mind-set would emerge from the wreckage? Would re-building occur, and if so, how and when?

Well, we don't get much of that in this book. This is the male version of the soupy late-80s female romance genre with its endless lists of Hermes scarfs, Dolce-et-Gabana sunglasses, Molton Brown bath oils, etc. so we have plenty of itemization of firearms, ammunition, knives, and the life. Rawles is right enough of the time with his biases that his errors, when they present themselves, are forgivable. He's also strong on practical combat tactics - nothing too difficult for a reasonably motivated survivalist to master, yet reasonably effective. So we get the logistics of survival in this novel and as such it may be a useful primer for anyone who hasn't read widely or had military experience themselves.

Where this novel truly falls apart, however, is in its reliance on all the old paranoid fantasies of UN world domination, gold-standard currencies, big government interference in matters of weapon ownership, and all the rest of the paranoid clap-trap that seems to litter almost every survivalist tome. Survivalists seem to have developed the art of selective reading to a high pitch - focusing on preferred bits of the constitution, misunderstood fragments of economic theory garbled so badly as to be comical, and of course the Christian bible. Rawles regurgitates all this intellectual mush without criticism so we have to assume he's fully signed up to this delusional view of the world. So it is that the USA falls apart, only to have the United Nations turn up a handful of years later to impose world domination on the good Christian citizens who've managed to survive by dint of hard work and good shooting. I have no idea where this "Powerful UN" fantasy originated but it's so far from the truth as to be utterly laughable. And these standard paranoiac elements ultimately serve to undermine the book's residual credibility. While it's perfectly reasonable to observe that the Federal government is guilt of significant over-reach (as is indeed every government in the developed world) and is as corrupt and incompetent as anything in Italy, Greece, or South America, it's not enough to believe that civil society can successfully be constituted on the basis of "praise the lord and pass the ammo." Rawles is as naive about human nature as was Marx, and ironically makes many of the same errors. This is an Ayn Rand view of the world, and enough has been written on her total inability in both her personal and literary life to comprehend actual human behavior for us to know that any philosophy based on such cardboard-cut-out ideas is, to put it gently, highly implausible.

Equally problematic is the total absense of any examination of group dynamics. In the story, a group of survivalists hole up and stick together through the end of civilization. They live in one another's pockets for the better part of five years. Yet there's no tension, no emotional entanglements, nothing - quite amazing, especially since all but two of the protagonists are devoted Christians and there's a lot of empirical data to show that such groups, when placed under continuous stress, fragment over miniscule doctrinal differences. What we get in this book is basically the daily life of a platoon repeated endlessly. Only we know from available data that in the absence of an external and ultimate command structure, such small-scale units degenerate over time as personal factors come increasingly into play. Again, Rawles is betrayed by his total lack of comprehension of basic human dynamics. Which is a shame, because this could have been the most interesting part of the story.

In this novel, however, all the god-fearing folk are good hearted and all the heathens are communist baby-eating scum (I wish I was making this up, but the book goes well past the point of self-parody). Of course our good Christians are only too ready to blast away at such low-life and there's a satisfying body-count of the unholy. In reality we could expect to see groups of surviving fundamentalists blasting away at each other, each convinced of the purity of their cause and damning the others to eternal darkness. But there's no reality in this novel, and no moral or emotional dilemmas that can't be resolved with a good burst of fire from an assault rifle or shotgun. John Wayne would be proud.

On the plus side, Rawles has clearly thought through many of the logistical aspects of trying to survive the collapse of civilization. So in this regard the novel is an interesting exploration of "how to" and "what if." But it's such a complete failure in human terms that I found it a chore to read to the end. The people are one-dimensional and the situations are so childishly black-and-white that it's impossible to take seriously as a story. But it does provide a disturbing insight into the mentality of survivalists, even those as articulate and thoughtful as the author.

I learned something important from this book...5
Great survival fiction, with a premise that's "lifted from today's headlines" as they say. Taking Tom Clancy a bit further, the author uses the events of the novel to teach post-collapse survival skills with details that will make you want to add the book to your reference library, not just your recreational bookshelf. But from the chapters of action and survival-scenario excitement I took a broader lesson; when times are really trying, good men must pull their moral values close around them.

In a lawless future, the protagonists are faced with bandits, foreign fighters, and even cannibals. But as the world around them goes off the deep end, the heroes in the book take their moral values to the heights. An example: when The Group defeats a band of two roving thieves, they confiscate the treasure that the bad guys had looted from other helpless citizens. The bounty consists of weapons, gold, food, and other necessary and valuable commodities. But since these items were stolen (probably from now-dead neighbors, there's really no way to tell the identity of the victims), the Group can't rightfully claim the property. That would be stealing, nearly as bad as if it had been them who had done the robbing. So instead they hold the goods in lockers to be doled out as charity to less fortunate, destitute passers by.

This, and many other examples in the well written book, made me reconsider the notion of moral absolutes in a world without laws, except the gun. It made me resolve to keep my own moral compass on the top of my disaster Go Bag. I hope you'll feel the same way after reading this book.

Victorinox Swiss Army Champion Plus Pocket Knife From Victorinox

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Product Details
Victorinox Swiss Army Champion Plus Pocket Knife

Product Description

The Swiss Army Champion Plus Knife is one of the most useful, appreciated, and classic gifts you can give someone. The Champion Plus comes in Swiss-army-knife red and is loaded with handy implements. Precision crafted in Switzerland, this knife is constructed with an acid-resistant nylon and aluminum handle, and 100-percent stainless-steel components to last you for years. The Champion Plus weighs a light 5.25 ounces, and measures 3.5 inches when closed. On the main side this multi-tool features: large and small blades, a file, a saw, scissors, a magnifying glass, can and bottle openers, and small, medium, large, and Phillips screwdrivers. The back side features: a cork screw, a chisel, a reamer, a hook, and a punch with a sewing eye. Tweezers, ink pen, and a toothpick pull out of the ends of the Champion Plus. Additionally, the saw doubles as a ruler with both inch and centimeter marks, and a notch in the bottle opener can be used to strip wires.


Product Details

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #32 in Sports & Outdoors
  • Color: Red
  • Brand: Victorinox
  • Model: 54525
  • Dimensions: 3.00 pounds

Features

  • Complete set of Swiss Army tools to use while camping, hiking, fishing, and more
  • Contains 30 stainless-steel tools, with 60-plus individual parts
  • Includes screwdrivers, can/bottle opener, files, hooks, saws, and much more
  • Housed in famous Swiss Army body, with nylon handle and aluminum frame
  • Precision crafted in Switzerland; measures 3-1/2 inches long; lifetime warranty

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Product Description
From the renowned company that created the Swiss Army Knife a century ago comes the Champion Plus, a complete set of tools for campers, hikers, hunters, fishers, picnic enthusiasts, and people all trades--all neatly contained in a single implement. Measuring just 3-1/2 inches long, the Champion Plus is stylishly cased in the famous red Swiss Army body that's recognized around the world. More importantly, the pocket knife contains 30 stainless-steel tools appropriate for just about any occasion. The standard camping tools include a large blade, a small blade, a corkscrew, a can opener, a bottle opener, a small screwdriver, a large screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, scissors, tweezers, and a toothpick. And that's just the beginning, as the Champion Plus also offers a punch reamer, multipurpose hook, wood saw, fish scaler, and hook disgorger. In short, there's no better accessory for camping, hunting, and fishing trips.

Should the basic tools not cut it, the Champion Plus steps up with a host of extras, including a metal file, metal saw, fine screwdriver, mini screwdriver, and chisel scraper. Add in such tools as a ruler, nail file, nail cleaner, magnifying glass, pressurized ball point pen, straight pen, sewing eye, and key ring and you're well equipped for everything from repairing holes in tents to reading the fine print on instructions.

As with all Victorinox items, the Champion Plus is made to exacting standards, with 60-plus individual parts and 450 steps going into its construction. Victorinox attends to every detail, from selecting the finest materials to performing the final inspection. In addition, each individual tool has been hardened in a different way to stand up to its designated use. Such care is unmatched, and is why the Champ series is recognized by such international experts as the New York Museum of Modern Art and the State Museum of Applied Art in Munich, both of which have selected it for their "excellence in design" collections. Outfitted with a nylon handle and an aluminum housing, the Champion Plus carries a lifetime warranty.



The Champion Plus measures just 3-1/2 inches long and contains 30 useful tools.

Champion Plus Features:

  • Large blade, small blade
  • Corkscrew, can opener, bottle opener
  • Small screwdriver, large screwdriver
  • Reamer, punch
  • Key ring, tweezers, toothpick
  • Scissors, multi-purpose hook
  • Wood saw, fish scaler
  • Hook disgorger, ruler
  • Nail file, nail cleaner
  • Metal file, metal saw
  • Fine screwdriver, chisel/scraper
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Magnifying glass, straight pen
  • Pressurized ball point pen
  • Mini screwdriver, sewing eye

About Swiss Army Knives
In 1884, Swiss cutler Karl Elsener set up shop in Ibach-Schwyz, installing a waterwheel in Tobelbach Brook to run his grinding and polishing machines. Thus began what would become the international brand name Victorinox, a combination of Victoria, for Elsener's mother, and "inox," or stainless steel. Today, Victorinox produces watches, luggage, clothing, and, famously, Swiss Army Knives. The original product dates to 1897, when Elsener patented the Swiss Officer's and Sports Knife he supplied to the Swiss Army. Following World War II, American servicemen and women shopping in PX stores shortened the name to Swiss Army Knife, which lives on in English-speaking countries around the world and has become a metaphor for versatility.


Customer Reviews

The Swiss Champ is a durable, compact and useful workhorse. 5
Victorinox Swiss Army Champion Plus Pocket Knife

Whether you are anything from an urban traveler to an outdoor survivalist, you will find that the Swiss Champ will serve you well for decades.

Marine Corps and beyond5
I have had the same knife since 1992 when I bought it at the Kaneohe Bay Marine Corps exchange, I have carried that knife on every deployment and operation since. I have since retired and still, it is the first thing I pack when going on a trip. It is the number one "when all else fails" tool. And if it breaks in any way, remember to send it back off to Victorinox, they will fix it. Good piece of gear. Semper Fi

Swiss Army Knife5
I bought this for my husband, He loves it.It has many tools to help him for his projects, and he uses it for his gardening too. Great Product.

Lodge Logic Skillet

RITE-PRICE CAMPING STORE
Product Details

Product Description

Made by the cast iron experts at Lodge, this revolutionary pan is preseasoned, so it's ready to cook right out of the box. It's perfect for making virtually anything from bacon and eggs to grilled sandwiches, pan-fried fish, and fabulous cornbread. Each has dual pour spouts and a helper handle.

Lodge Logic's new preseasoning process penetrates the metal's pores thoroughly and uniformly, so it looks and performs better than traditional home seasoning. You still get the even heating, superior heat retention, and inherently stick-resistant finish that has made cast iron cookware a favorite of professional chefs. Oven safe. Made in the USA.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Camp fire

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A campfire made using twigs and pine cones.
A campfire made using twigs and pine cones.

A campfire is a fire lit at a campsite, usually in a fire ring. Campfires are a popular feature of camping, particularly among organized campers such as Scouts or Guides. Without proper precautions they are also potentially dangerous. A certain degree of skill is needed to properly build a campfire, to keep it going, and to see that it is properly extinguished. In some regions it is called a bonfire.

The dangers

A campfire producing sparks
A campfire producing sparks
Closeup of campfire
Closeup of campfire

A campfire may burn out of control in two basic ways: on the ground or in the trees. Dead leaves or pine needles on the ground may ignite from direct contact with burning wood, or from thermal radiation. Alternatively, airborne embers (or their smaller kin, sparks) may ignite dead material in overhanging branches. This latter threat is less likely, but a fire in a branch will be virtually impossible to put out without firefighting equipment, and may spread more quickly than a ground fire. Hence, many campgrounds include fire rings to prevent this from occurring.

Embers may simply fall off of logs and be carried away by the air, or they may be ejected at high speed by exploding pockets of sap. With these dangers in mind, some places prohibit all open fires, particularly during times of the year that are prone to wildfires.

Campfires are prohibited in many public camping areas. Public areas with large tracts of woodland usually have signs indicating the level of fire danger, which usually depends on recent rain and the amount of deadfalls or dry debris; when the danger is highest, all open fires are prohibited. Even in safer times, it is common to require registration and permits to build a campfire. Such areas are often kept under observation by rangers, who will dispatch someone to investigate any unidentified plume of smoke.

Finding a site, and other safety measures

A small fire in a backyard fire pit.
A small fire in a backyard fire pit.

Ideally, every fire should be lit in a fire ring. If a fire ring is not available, a temporary fire site may be constructed. One way is to cover the ground with sand, or other soil mostly free of flammable organic material, to a depth of a few inches. Fire rings, however, do not fully protect material on the ground from catching fire. Flying embers are still a threat, and the fire ring may become hot enough to ignite material in contact with it. Generally, one must simply stand away from the ring to prevent injury.

No fire should be lit close to trees, tents or other fire hazards. This includes overhanging branches; some carry dead, dry material that can ignite from a single airborne ember. In addition, a fire may harm any roots under it, even if they are protected by a thin layer of soil. Conifers run a greater risk of root damage, because they lack taproots and their roots run close to the surface.

Fires also should not be lit on bare rocks. The ash will leave a black stain that cannot be easily removed, but the fire's heat can lead to more dramatic consequences. It will cause the outer layer of the rock to expand, possibly causing it to crack. It may also boil pockets of water contained in the rock.

An additional safety measure is to have sand and water on hand to smother and douse the fire if it does get out of the fire pit. It is wise to gather these materials before they are actually needed.

Types of fuel

There are, by conventional classification, three types of material involved in building a fire without manufactured fuels.

  1. Tinder is anything that can be lit with a match. One of the best natural tinders is birch bark or cedar bark, where available, followed by dead, dry pine needles or grass; a more comprehensive list is given in the article on tinder.
  2. Kindling is an arbitrary classification including anything bigger than tinder but smaller than fuelwood. In fact, there are gradations of kindling, from sticks thinner than a finger to those as thick as a wrist. A quantity of kindling sufficient to fill a hat may be enough, but more is better.
  3. Fuel can be different types of timber. Timber ranges from small logs two or three inches (76 mm) across to larger logs that can burn for hours. It is typically difficult to gather without a hatchet or other cutting tool. In heavily used campsites, fuelwood can be hard to find, so it may have to be brought from home or purchased at a nearby store.
  4. Pitchwood
    Pitchwood from a fir stump
    Pitchwood from a fir stump
    can be found in the temperate rainforests of the Pacific Northwest of the United States. Fir trees, especially the Douglas fir, wil leave stumps in the ground when they die. These stumps contain spires of resine-impregnated wood which can easily be lighted using only a single match or lighter. "To identify pitchwood, first look for an old snag stub...Along with the red, rotten wood, you will find veins of solid wood radiating out between the rotten wood areas. There also may be spikes of sound wood sticking up above the rotten wood. Take your knife and whittle a shaving. Smell this shaving. If it has a penetrating, turpentive odor, you have found some pitchwood. Also, look around the base of the snag stub; there may be pieces of pitchwood that have fallen off during the process of decay. Pitchwood is heavy, and will have a reddish to black color, depending on the amount of resin or pitch that the wood contains." By shaving the pitchwood into small splinters, it will readily ignite. Pitchwood does not absorb water, and so will ignite in any weather when sheltered from rain and wind. In the southeastern United States it is formed from the heartwood of Longleaf pine trees and is called "fat lighter" or "lighter'd" (a shortening of lighter-wood). (Reference--Ratliff, Donald E., Sr., Map, Compass and Campfire, Binford & Mort, Publishers, 1964, page 45.)

Areas such as State Parks and National Parks which permit camping most often will allow the collection of wood lying on the ground with the exception of parks that have erosion problems (i.e. campgrounds that are near dunes); although you should always ask the person in charge of the campground such as the park ranger if the gathering of wood lying of the ground is allowed. Cutting of living trees is almost always forbidden - but neither is it very useful, because sap-filled wood does not burn well. Squaw wood (dead parts of standing trees) may also be prohibited.

Building the fire

A close-up of kindiling used to form the initial tipi.
A close-up of kindiling used to form the initial tipi.

Having found a suitable site and gathered materials, the fire-builder has a variety of designs to choose from. A good design is very important in the early stages of a fire. Most of them make no mention of fuelwood - in most designs, fuelwood is never placed on a fire until the kindling is burning strongly.

  • The tipi fire-build takes some patience to construct. First, the tinder is piled up in a compact heap. The smaller kindling is arranged around it, like the poles of a tipi. For added strength, it may be possible to lash some of the sticks together. A tripod lashing is quite difficult to execute with small sticks, so a clove hitch should suffice. (Synthetic rope should be avoided, since it produces pollutants when it burns.) Then the larger kindling is arranged above the smaller kindling, taking care not to collapse the tipi. A separate tipi as a shell around the first one may work better. Tipi fires are excellent for producing heat to keep you warm. However, one downside to a Tipi fire is the fact that when it burns, the logs become unstable and can fall over. This is especially concerning if you have a large fire.
A campfire with colored flames, made by burning a garden hose in a copper pipe.
A campfire with colored flames, made by burning a garden hose in a copper pipe.
  • A lean-to fire-build starts with the same pile of tinder as the tipi fire-build. Then, a long, thick piece of kindling is driven into the ground at an angle, so that it overhangs the tinder pile. The smaller pieces of kindling are leaned against the big stick so that the tinder is enclosed between them.
  • A log cabin fire-build likewise begins with a tinder pile. The kindling is then stacked around it, as in the construction of a log cabin. The first two kindling sticks are laid parallel to each other, on opposite sides of the tinder pile. The second pair is laid on top of the first, at right angles to it, and also on opposite sides of the tinder. More kindling is added in the same manner. The smallest kindling is placed over the top of the assembly. Of all the fire-builds, the log cabin is the least vulnerable to premature collapse, but it is also inefficient, because it makes the worst use of convection to ignite progressively larger pieces of fuel.
    • A variation on the log cabin starts with two pieces of fuelwood with a pile of tinder between them, and small kindling laid over the tops of the logs, above the tinder. The tinder is lit, and the kindling is allowed to catch fire. When it is burning briskly, it is broken and pushed down into the consumed tinder, and the larger kindling is placed over the top of the logs. When that is burning well, it is also pushed down. Eventually, a pile of kindling should be burning between two pieces of fuelwood. The logs will eventually catch fire from it.
    • Another variation is called the funeral pyre method because it is used for building funeral pyres. Its main difference from the standard log cabin is that it starts with thin pieces and moves up to thick pieces. If built on a large scale, this type of fire-build collapses in a controlled manner without restricting the air flow.
    • A cross-fire is another variation in which two pieces of fuel wood are placed parallel on the ground with tinder between them. Once the kindling is going strong, alternating perpendicular layers of fuelwood are placed across the two base pieces. This type of fire is excellent for producing coals for cooking.
  • The traditional Finnish rakovalkea (literally "slit bonfire") is constructed by placing one long piece of fuelwood atop another, parallel and bolstering them in place with four sturdy posts driven into the ground. (Traditionally, whole unsplit tree trunks are used for the fuelwood.) Kindling and tinder are placed between the logs in sufficient quantity (while avoiding the very ends) to raise the upper log and allow ventilation. The tinder is always lit at the center so the bolstering posts don't burn prematurely. The rakovalkea has two excellent features. First, it burns slowly but steadily when lit; it doesn't require arduous maintenance, but burns for a very long time. A well constructed rakovalkea of two thick logs of two meters in length can warm two lean-to shelters for a whole sleeping shift. The construction causes the logs themselves to protect the fire from the wind. Thus, exposure to smoke is unlikely for the sleepers; nevertheless someone should always watch in case of an emergency. Second, it can be easily scaled to larger sizes (for a feast) limited only by the length of available tree trunks.
  • A keyhole fire is made in a keyhole-shaped fire ring, and is used in cooking. The large round area is used to build a fire in order to create coals. As coals develop, they are scraped into the rectangular area used for cooking.
  • A "top lighter" fire is built similar to a log cabin or pyre, but instead of the tinder and kindling being placed inside the cabin, it is placed in a tipi on top. The small tipi is lighted on top, and the coals eventually fall down into the log cabin. These fires are often built by youth outdoor movements for "council fires" or ceremonial fires. They burn very predictably, and with some practice a builder can estimate how long they will last. They also don't throw off a lot of heat, which isn't needed for a ceremonial fire. The fire burns from the top down, with the layer of hot coals and burning stubs ignighting the next layer down.

Lighting the fire

A campfire
A campfire

Once the fire is built, the next step is to light the tinder, using either an ignition device such as a match or a lighter. A reasonably skillful fire-builder using reasonably good material will only need one match. The tinder will burn brightly, but be reduced to glowing embers within half a minute. If the kindling does not catch fire, the fire-builder must gather more tinder, determine what went wrong and try to fix it.

One of five problems can prevent a fire from lighting properly: wet wood, wet weather, too little tinder, too much wind, or a lack of oxygen. Rain will, of course, douse a fire, but a combination of wind and fog also has a stifling effect. Metal fire rings generally do a good job of keeping out wind, but some of them are so high as to impede the circulation of oxygen in a small fire. To make matters worse, these tall fire rings also make it very difficult to blow on the fire properly.

Steady, forceful blowing may be in order for a small fire in an enclosed space that has mysteriously slowed down, but blowing may extinguish a fire if it is done abruptly or when it is not needed. Most large fires easily create their own circulation, even in unfavorable conditions, but the variant log-cabin fire-build suffers from a chronic lack of air so long as the initial structure is maintained.

Once the large kindling is burning, all of the kindling should be put on the fire, save for one piece at least a foot long. This piece is useful later to push pieces of fuelwood where they are needed. Once all of the kindling is burning, the fuelwood should be placed on top of it (unless, as in the rakovalkea fire-build, it is already there). For best results, two or more pieces of fuelwood should be leaned against each other, as in the tipi fire-build.

Campfire activities

Australian "snags" cooking on a campfire
Australian "snags" cooking on a campfire

Campfires have been used for cooking since time immemorial. Possibly the simplest method of cooking over a campfire and one of the most common is to roast food on long skewers that can be held above the flames. This is a popular technique for cooking hot dogs or toasting marshmallows for making s'mores. Another technique is to use pie irons — small iron molds with long handles, into which can be placed slices of bread with some form of filling — which are placed over hot coals to cook. However, portable stoves have all but replaced campfires for cooking.

For more information, see Campfire cooking.

Other practical, though not commonly needed, applications for campfires include drying wet clothing, alleviating hypothermia, and distress signaling.

Most campfires, though, are lit exclusively for recreation. People tend to find something fascinating about flames and glowing coals, so a campfire is usually an agreeable (and warm) way to pass the time from dusk to bedtime, particularly for those in a pensive mood. Campfires are also good venues for intimate conversation and storytelling; yarns and stories about poltergeists are particularly popular. Songs are also usually sung by the fire, a tradition that is usually associated with Scouting and Guiding. Scouting Songs are popular tunes that are sung all over the country at campfires all summer – and all year – long. Another tradition in most scout outings involving a whole scout district (especially Boy Scouts) is to perform sketch comedy a.k.a. skits.

Another traditional campfire activity involves impaling marshmallows on sticks or uncoiled coat hangers, and roasting them over the fire. Roasted marshmallows may also be used for S'mores.

Members of the United States Army 16th Infantry Regiment gathered around a campfire in 1916 during the Pancho Villa Expedition
Members of the United States Army 16th Infantry Regiment gathered around a campfire in 1916 during the Pancho Villa Expedition

Ash tradition

The campfire ash tradition exists in Scouting all over the world. There may be an introduction and closing to it at the end of a campfire ceremony or individuals may partake of this tradition on their own.

Lord Robert Baden-Powell, the founder of Scouting and the Chief Scout of the World, used to collect some of the ashes from each Scouting event and he would mix them with water and all people with him at the time would drink from the cup. As this tradition has spread, Scouts from around the world have shared campfire ash water with each other. Lists have been kept of the events where this has happened. These lists form a history and a bond between Scouts and Scouters over the years; regardless of the distance, language, culture or uniform. This ash tradition represents the Friendship and Scouting Spirit shared by Scouts and Guides at campfires around the world.

Extinguishing the fire

Leaving a fire unattended is dangerous. Any number of accidents might occur in the absence of people, leading to property damage, personal injury or possibly a wildfire. Ash is a very good insulator, so embers left overnight will only lose a fraction of their heat. It is even possible to restart the new day's fire by using the embers via an igniting device.

Large amounts of water are indispensable for extinguishing a fire. To properly cool a fire, water should be splashed on all the embers, including places that are not glowing red. Splashing the water is both more effective and efficient in extinguishing the fire. The water will boil violently and carry ash in the air with it, dirtying anything nearby but not posing a safety hazard. The water should be poured until the hissing noises stop. Then the ashes should be stirred with a stick to make sure that the water has penetrated all the layers; if the hissing continues, more water should be added. A fire is fully extinguished if the ashes are cool to the touch.

If water is scarce, sand may be used. The sand will deprive the fire of oxygen quite well, but it is much less effective than water at absorbing heat. Once the fire has been covered thoroughly with sand, all water that can be spared should be poured on it, and the sand stirred into the ash.

However, since wetting the pit and/or filling it with sand makes it difficult for the next person to get a clean fire lit, fully extinguishing a campfire in a frequently-used metal or rugged stone firepit is considered poor etiquette. At a popular campground or other location where you expect other people to want to light a fire within two days and where the local fire risk isn't unusually high (ie, if the fire risk is in the blue or green zones) and only when surrounding vegetation is green and healthy rather than dried out, you should cool the firepit rather than fully extinguishing it. A few hours before you vacate the site, extinguish visible flames, preferably by suffocating the flames in their own fuel, or let the fire "run out." Spread the remaining coals around within the confins of the firepit to allow them to cool down. Once the coals are no longer red, it is safe to leave the site.

When winter or "ice" camping with an inch or more of snow on the ground, neither of the above protocols are necessary--simply douse visible flames before leaving.

Finally, in lightly-used wilderness areas, it is best to replace anything that was moved while preparing the fire site, and scatter anything that was gathered, so that it looks as natural as possible. Make absolutely certain that anything that was in or near the fire is fully cooled before following this protocol.

See also

Cooking on a campfire

External links

Monday, August 18, 2008

Backpacks

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A backpack
A backpack

A backpack (also called rucksack, knapsack, packsack, pack, or Bergan) is, in its simplest form, a cloth sack carried on one's back and secured with two straps that go over the shoulders, but there can be exceptions. Light weight types of backpacks are sometimes worn on only one shoulder strap, or in the hand like an ordinary bag.

Backpacks are often preferred to handbags for carrying heavy loads, because of the limited capacity to carry heavy weights for long periods of time in the hands. Large backpacks, used to carry loads over 10 kg, usually offload the largest part (up to about 90%) of their weight onto padded hip belts, leaving the shoulder straps mainly for stabilising the load. This improves the potential to carry heavy loads, as the hips are stronger than the shoulders, and also increases agility and balance, since the load rides nearer the person's own center of mass.

In ancient times, the backpack was used as a means to carry the hunter's larger game and other types of prey as a way of easier transport. In the cases of larger hunts, the hunters would dismember their prey and distribute the pieces of the animal around each one packing the meat into many wrappings and then into a bag which they place on to their back. The bag itself was made up of different animal hide and skin (depending on what sorts of animals were in the area) and sewn together by the intestines of said animals, which were woven together tightly to make a sturdy thread-like material.

Terminology

The word backpack was coined in the United States in the 1910s. Knapsack and packsack were used before; they now occur mainly as regionalisms in North America. The word rucksack is a German loanword mainly used in the UK: 'der Rücken' means 'the back' (the part of the body) in German. The name Rucksack is cognate with Danish Rygsæk, Norwegian Ryggsekk, Dutch Rugzak, and Swedish Ryggsäck. Alternative names include Haversack, and Bergan (from the manufacturer's name Bergans, used for a backpack supported by an external frame, usually associated with the British Armed Forces).

Backpacks can often simply be referred to as "packs", especially in outdoors contexts; though sometimes ambiguous compared to other bags such as saddlebags and duffel bags, context is generally sufficient for identification.

Backpack designs

Backpacks in general fall into one of three categories: frameless, external frame, and internal frame. A pack frame, when present, serves to support the pack and distribute the weight of its contents across the body more easily (generally by transferring much of the weight to the hips and legs), so most of the weight does not rest on the shoulders, restricting range of motion and possibly causing damage from pressure on the straps. Most are capable of being closed with either a buckle mechanism or a zipper, though a few models use a drawstring for the main compartment.

Frameless

The simplest backpack design is a bag attached to a set of shoulder straps. Such packs are used for general transportation of goods, and have variable capacity. The simplest designs consist of one main pocket. This maybe combined with webbing or cordage straps; while more sophisticated models add extra pockets, waist straps, chest straps, padded shoulder straps, padded backs, and sometimes reflective materials for added safety when the wearer is out at night. In general these packs can be produced inexpensively.

Some outdoors packs, particularly those sold for day hikes, ultralight backpacking and mountaineering are sometimes frameless as well.

External frame packs

The more traditional type of frame pack uses a rigid external frame which is strapped on the back and in turn carries and supports a cloth or leather sack and potentially strapped on items. External frames were traditionally used to carry heavy loads (20 kg / 40 lb and more), giving the wearer more support and protection and better weight distribution than a simple, frameless strapped bag. Wooden pack frames have been used for centuries around the world (Ötzi the Iceman may have used one in Copper Age Alpine Italy [1][2], though some archaeologists believe the frame found with the body was part of a snowshoe), and such gear was common in military and mountaineering applications right up to the 20th century [3]; metal versions first appeared in the mid-20th century, and plastic designs towards the turn of the 21st. Modern pack frames are usually made from lightweight metal tubes, generally aluminium but sometimes also using titanium or scandium alloys. The frame typically has a system of straps and pads to keep the sack and the frame from contacting the body. The open structure has the added benefit of improved ventilation and decreased sweatiness. The fabric part of the pack occupies part of the frame's length, but the frame typically protrudes above and below. These areas of the frame allow bulky items (such tents, sleeping bags, and thermal pads) to be strapped on. Thus the main compartment is smaller than that of an internal-frame pack, because bulky items (tents, sleeping bags, thermal pads) are strapped to the parts of the frame not occupied by the main compartment itself. This may result in a less smooth load (annoying in dense forest) and less control over the movement of the center of gravity of the pack. While less popular than internal-frame gear, some manufacturers (such as Kelty, Jansport, and Coleman) continue to produce external packs, and military packs are often external-frame designs as well.

Internal frame packs

An internal-frame pack has a large cloth section in which a small frame is integrated. This frame generally consists of strips of either metal or plastic that mold to one's back to provide a good fit, sometimes with additional metal stays to reinforce the frame. Usually a complex series of straps works with the frame to distribute the weight and hold it in place. The close fitting of the back section to the wearer's back allows the pack to be closely attached to the body, and gives a predictable movement of the load; on the downside, the tight fit reduces ventilation, so these type of packs tend to be more sweaty compared to external frame packs. The internal construction also allows for a large storage compartment. Internal-frame packs may provide a few lash points (including webbing loops and straps for sleeping bags and other large items), but as the frame is fully integrated and not available on the outside, it is difficult to lash a large, heavy item so that it stays fixed and does not bounce, so most cargo must fit inside. Internal-frame packs originally suffered from smaller load capacity and less comfortable fit during steady walking, but newer models have improved greatly in these respects. In addition, because of their snug fit, they ride better in activities that involve upper-body movement such as scrambling over rocky surfaces and skiing. The improved internal frame models have largely replaced external frame backpacks for many activities.

Backpacks in daily use

In many countries, backpacks are heavily identified with students, and are a primary means of transporting educational materials to and from school.[1] In this context they are sometimes known as bookbags or schoolbags. The purchase of a suitably fashionable, attractive, and useful backpack is a crucial back-to-school ritual for many students.[2]

Typical school backpacks generally lack the rigid frame of an outdoor-style backpack and include only a few pockets in addition to the main holding space of the pack. While traditionally very simple in design, school backpacks are often made with padded straps and backs as well as additional reinforcement to hold large numbers of heavy textbooks, as well as safety features such as reflective panels to make the wearer of the pack more visible at night. It is very common for schools (especially colleges and universities) to sell backpacks decorated with the school logo.

Specialist ergonomic back packs are available that are designed to protect young backs and distribute the weight across the strongest muscles and relieve pressure on the neck and spine.

Backpacks are sometimes worn as fashion accessories, in which they perform the same function as a purse.[3] Some such backpacks designed specifically for women are no larger than a typical purse, and are generally associated with younger, often college-age women.

Special-purpose backpacks

Camera backpack
Camera backpack

Some backpacks are specifically designed to carry certain items. Common examples include backpacks for small, high-value items such as laptops and cameras (see photo);[4] backpacks designed to hold laptop computers in particular generally have a padded compartment to hold the computer and are especially common in college and university settings. It is also possible to buy "picnic basket" backpacks that come with plastic dishes and utensils, a tablecloth, etc. In order to supply these devices with electricity, some backpacks are equipped with solar panels.[5]

Backpacks (often made of clear plastic) are sometimes used as a type of packaging, particularly for educational toys and games targeted at children. In retail settings, loss prevention rules sometimes require employees to use clear plastic backpacks (as well as purses) to carry materials to and from work to prevent loss by employee theft.

There are also single-strap packs that are essentially a hybrid between a backpack and a messenger bag.

Inexpensive, very simple packs that combine the drawstring and straps into a single piece of cloth or webbing are occasionally sold for use at sporting events and the like. Some high-end retailers (notably Apple Stores) use a similar design for their shopping bags as well.

Rolling backpacks are backpacks with wheels on the bottom and an extending handle to ease carrying objects inside the backpacks. Because of its design, rolling backpacks reduce the strain on one's back, which is more ergonomic than regular backpacks, though rolling backpacks can be carried on the back as well.

Backpacks for professional use

Backpacks are a standard part of the carrying equipment of soldiers, especially infantry, in most countries, and military-style packs are regularly available to civilians in military surplus stores. Well-known examples include the United States ALICE field pack and the British Army PLCE rucksack attachment, both of which are widely available to civilian markets both as actual military surplus (new or used) and as replicas. Such packs are often, though not always (e.g. the USMC's ILBE pack), external-frame packs, with the pack itself lashed or pinned to a metal or plastic carrying frame.

Many police tactical units, as well as players of military-style combat games such as paintball and airsoft, use military-style backpacks and webbing for storing gear and ammunition. There is also a small but thriving industry devoted to creating historical reproductions of military gear; such companies generally produce period-appropriate uniforms and other gear in addition to backpacks.

Some more recent military/tactical designs, especially the MOLLE and ILBE packs used by the United States armed forces, are covered with webbing loop attachment points for increased carrying capacity.

Backpacks for leisure and travel

Backpacks are sometimes used as luggage, particularly as carry-on bags for airplane travel.

Backpacks form an essential part of the gear of the outdoor trekker and the urban backpacker, allowing more mobility and compactness than would be available to someone carrying most of their gear and clothing in a suitcase.

In addition to their use in outdoors pursuits, backpacks are sometimes used in other sports as well. Hydration packs, sometimes used by runners and bicyclists, carry water (in either a bladder or a rigid bottle) and have a tube connected to them from which the wearer can drink without removing the pack; this feature is also included in some more general-purpose hiking backpacks. Backpacks that carry skateboards have also become more popular in the youth culture.

Backpacks for outdoor activities

Large internal-frame backpack
Large internal-frame backpack

One common special type of backpack (sometimes referred to as a "technical pack" or "frame pack") is designed for backpacking and other outdoors activities. These type of packs are more complex than most other backpacks. Compared to backpacks used for more day-to-day purposes such as schoolbooks, such packs are designed to carry substantially heavier loads, and as a result most such packs attach not only at the shoulders but at the hips, using a padded hip belt to distribute the majority of the weight of the pack to the legs and not the back. The often heavily padded and sometimes semi-rigid shoulder straps are mainly for balancing the weight. They usually (except for those used in ultralight backpacking) have a metal or plastic frame to support and distribute the weight of the pack. Larger packs of this type tend to have a subdivided main compartment. These trekking packs often have several pockets on the outside; they may also have lash points on the exterior (either directly attached to the frame or webbing loops), so that bulky items may be strapped on, although depending on the pack design and type of trek most backpackers will try to stuff everything into the pack. Multiday packs typically have a content between 60 and 100 liters (and are about 3ft /1 meter tall). Smaller packs with similar features are available for shorter trips.

The most common materials for such packs are canvas and nylon, either ripstop fabric for lightweight packs or heavier fabric such as cordura for more typical usage. Most such packs are purpose-designed for the outdoors market; however, it is not uncommon for military surplus packing gear to be sold to outdoorspeople as well for the same purpose. The cheaper versions of the outdoor packs are often favoured by city trekkers; as they have a large volume and still carry relatively easily.

Outdoors packs, in addition to the distinction between external-frame and internal-frame, can be further subdivided based on the duration of trip a pack might be expected to be used on; daypacks hold supplies for a single day's hiking (size about 20-30 litres), while "weekender" bags can hold two to three day's worth of gear and supplies (sizes about 40-50 litres). Larger packs generally have no specific names but are designed to distribute the weight of increased numbers of gear and supplies for longer-duration trips (60-100 litres); such packs often include complex ergonomic support features to simplify the carrying of large amounts of weight. A third type with little or no frame at all, similar to the bookbags used by students and made of light fabric (often nylon ripstop, as mentioned above), is used in ultralight backpacking to eliminate the weight of the frame and heavy fabric used in more typical outdoors packs. Despite (or perhaps because of) their lesser weight, such packs are seldom less expensive than more typical, regular-weight packs.

In addition, outdoors packs are designed for specific purposes such as kayaking/canoeing, rock climbing, mountaineering, cross country skiing, and other such activities. Packs used in competitive strategic sports such as paintball and airsoft are often based on or actually are military gear.

Comparison of backpack designs
Frameless External frame Internal frame
Nonrigid bag strapped to shoulders Large rigid (metal, plastic, or wood) frame to which the pack is secured Highly reduced semirigid frame in the inside of the pack
Inexpensive and widely available Good ventilation Tight fit and less bouncing
Only suitable for light loads (less than about 5 kg.) Large capacity for bulky strap-on items Roomy internal storage, with occasional lash points for external items
May cost ~US$10-150 May cost ~US$80-200 (less popular and harder to find) May cost ~US$100-600 (or more)/€100-600

Daisy chain

A daisy chain is a small strip of webbing stitched to the pack at regular intervals to form multiple loops. This allows a backpacker to secure many different types of objects to the exterior of the pack.

See also

References

  1. ^ Bruce Horovitz, "New 'badge' of cool: High-tech, high-fashion backpacks," USA Today, 20 August 2007, 1A.
  2. ^ Horovitz, 1A.
  3. ^ Horovitz, 1A.
  4. ^ Horovitz, 1A.
  5. ^ Voltaic backpack - a backpack with imbedded solar panels

External links